Hula Girl: History, Costume, and Dance Moves

Hula Girl: A Celebration of Island RhythmThe image of the hula girl—graceful, smiling, and swaying to the beat of a ukulele—has captured imaginations around the world. Far more than a tourist souvenir or decorative dashboard figurine, the hula girl represents a living cultural practice with deep roots in Hawaiian history, spirituality, and community life. This article traces the hula girl’s origins, explores the dance’s musical and symbolic language, looks at its evolving role in contemporary Hawaii and beyond, and considers how to appreciate and participate respectfully in this vibrant tradition.

Origins and Historical Context

Hula is an ancient Hawaiian dance form developed by Native Hawaiians to tell stories, honor genealogies, preserve history, and connect with the divine. Early hula was performed to chants (oli) without instruments, often accompanying religious ceremonies, storytelling, and important social events. Hula practitioners—kumu hula (teachers) and their students—transmitted knowledge orally through generations, preserving language, myths, and cultural memory.

With the arrival of Westerners and missionary influence in the 19th century, hula experienced suppression and stigma, as some outsiders associated it with paganism and immorality. Despite this, Hawaiians kept hula alive, sometimes adapting it to new contexts. The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw a revival of interest in Hawaiian culture, and hula gained renewed public visibility through performances, tourism, and the development of halau (hula schools).

Forms and Styles: Tradition Meets Adaptation

Hula exists in two primary forms:

• Hula Kahiko: The ancient form, accompanied by chants and traditional percussion (pahu drums, ipu gourds). Movements are often more grounded and ritualized; costumes include kapa (bark cloth), lei, and natural adornments. Hula kahiko emphasizes storytelling, using precise gestures to represent elements like wind, sea, or a lover’s voice.

• Hula ʻAuana: The modern form, developed in the 19th and 20th centuries, influenced by Western instruments (ukulele, guitar) and harmonic song structures. Dances are often more melodic and fluid, with costumes that include muʻumuʻu dresses or skirts and floral leis. Hula ʻauana frequently appears in contemporary entertainment and tourism settings but retains narrative depth.

Both styles share an emphasis on storytelling through movement. A single hand motion can signify rain, a canoe, or a name, while footwork, hip sway, and facial expression contribute nuance.

Music, Instruments, and Language

Hula’s music ranges from ancient chants (mele) to composed songs with lyrical melodies. Mele often incorporate genealogical recitation, place-names, or praises for chiefs and gods. Instruments include:

• Pahu: A sacred drum with deep tones, traditionally used in kahiko.
• Ipu and Ipu Heke: Single and double gourds used as percussion.
• ʻUkulele and guitar: Prominent in hula ʻauana accompaniment. -ʻIliʻili (stones) and puʻili (split bamboo) for rhythmic accents.

Language is central: Hawaiian words carry layered meanings (oli and mele may contain poetic metaphors), and many movements are choreographed to reflect the literal and allegorical content of the lyrics.

Costume, Adornment, and Symbolism

Costume choices are rich with symbolism. Traditional adornments—leis, haku (head garlands), and kīhei (shoulder cloaks)—signify respect, status, and connection to place. Natural materials (flowers, ferns, shells, kapa) root the dance in the islands’ environment.

The stereotypical “hula girl” image—grass skirt, coconut bra, lei, and a perpetual sway—derives partly from early commercialized depictions and mainland reinterpretations. While fun and iconic, this caricature oversimplifies the cultural significance of hula and often overlooks authentic practices and meanings.

The Kumu Hula and Halau: Guardians of Tradition

Kumu hula are the cultural custodians who train dancers in technique, mele, protocol, and history. A halau (hula school) functions like an extended family, where students learn discipline, chant composition, costume making, and the cultural protocols (kapu, or sacred practices in older contexts). Competitions like the Merrie Monarch Festival have elevated the visibility of kumu hula and halau, encouraging both preservation and innovation.

Hula in the Modern World: Tourism, Media, and Misunderstanding

Tourism helped popularize the hula girl image worldwide—postcards, figurines, films, and advertising often presented a sanitized, entertaining version of hula for visitors. While tourism provides economic opportunities and platforms for performance, it also risks commodifying culture. Important distinctions:

• Performance for Visitors: Many halau perform shorter, audience-friendly versions of hula ʻauana and demonstrations that introduce Hawaiian culture.
• Cultural Misappropriation: When elements of hula or Hawaiian dress are used without understanding or respect—especially for profit or costume—it can be disrespectful to practitioners and communities.
• Revitalization and Pride: Contemporary Hawaiian artists, filmmakers, and educators use hula to assert identity, teach language, and resist cultural erasure.

Learning Hula: Etiquette and Respect

If you want to learn hula or attend a performance, keep these guidelines in mind:

• Learn the meaning: Ask about the song’s story and what gestures represent.
• Respect protocol: Some dances and chants are sacred; follow the lead of the kumu and halau.
• Support local teachers: Take classes from Native Hawaiian kumu hula or community centers.
• Avoid costumes as Halloween outfits or casual appropriation; leis and haku are meaningful gifts given with respect.

Hula Beyond Hawaii: Global Influence and Adaptation

Hula has inspired dancers worldwide, with halau and practitioners in many countries. Some non-Hawaiian performers adopt hula with genuine respect and training, contributing to cross-cultural exchange. Still, the context matters: adaptation is more acceptable when accompanied by attribution, study, and awareness of cultural protocols.

Contemporary Challenges and Resilience

Hula faces challenges—language loss, commercialization, and climate threats to sacred sites and plant materials used in costume. Yet practitioners have shown resilience: revitalization movements, hālau-led education programs, and digital archiving of chants and choreography help preserve knowledge for future generations.

Conclusion

The hula girl image, when understood beyond stereotype, opens the door to a profound cultural practice. Hula is more than a dance: it’s history, language, spirituality, and community embodied. Celebrating island rhythm responsibly means honoring the people who keep the tradition alive—kumu hula, halau, and the broader Hawaiian community—and participating with curiosity, respect, and gratitude.